Material Source | 24 bio and by-product based materials for 2024

Dezeen Awards title

Photo Courtesy: Studio Sarmīte

Since Material Source first started, we’ve given a platform, and a voice, to those blazing a trail in developing bio and by-product based alternatives to the materials we rely upon every day.

We feel it’s our responsibility to bring new, innovative materials of this nature to the fore. It’s in our DNA.

Throughout December, we have done just this. Not all of the materials we have shared are market ready. Some are in their embryonic stage. But in highlighting their possibilities, our hope is that they – and others like them – will go on to be manufactured and secure the EPDs and certifications needed for specification, to help support a brighter future.

Moving the sustainability agenda forward, here are 24 bio and by-product based materials for 2024.

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23. Studio Sarmīte – (un)woven

Can colour make textile waste attractive? When recycling not only fibres but also colour itself – what new production methods emerge?

From marble-like patterns to developing novel dyeing processes for mixed blend unrecyclable textile fibres – Studio Sarmite investigates various waste streams from the textile industry as a resource for creating new material lifecycle concepts.

(Un)woven is a new bio-textile concept made of inferior textile fibres, created as an alternative to the flawed traditional textile recycling process. A unique production method turns inferior mixed blends into a lightweight biotextile suitable for fashion, interior and product design applications. Emphasising recyclability over longevity, the sturdy material can be recycled at the end of its life and repurposed for new production cycles over and over again.

The designer has developed two colour concepts. The marble line reveals new aesthetics and highlights the previous lives of each worn garment through colour and structural nuances. Waste does not have a single tone. Instead, it mesmerizes with depths and patterns that create a complexity visible once looked closer at. Natural pigments are used to further remove the existing stigma of recycled textiles.

Together with Roua Atelier, Studio Sarmite developed a pioneering dyeing method for mixed blends. The dyeing is integrated directly into the making of the biotextile thus leading to a unique design language and subtle, sophisticated colour palette.

(Un)woven is part of a larger project investigating various waste streams from the textile industry. Post-consumer garments, production waste, fibres, dust and even dye waste are seen as a resource for the creation of new material concepts. This project has been funded by the European Commission.

Credits: Studio Sarmite – A design studio for non-heroic materials. Designers Sarmite Polakova and Mara Berzina. In collaboration with Roua Atelier (Roua Alhalabi).