We discovered Sarmite Polakova in 2016 when she was exhibiting with other graduates from the Design Academy Eindhoven at the Off Salone in Milan with her pine bark project. Today, Studio Sarmite is a materials design and research studio focussing on transforming industry waste and its byproducts into new closed-loop concepts.A core idea is to design with unrecyclable textile fibers.We discussed last week how she could collaborate with our upcoming Materials Session we celebrate in Barcelona where we will have her materials in the room to explore.

Introducing Pre-Loved: a biotextile adorned with a mesmerizing marbled motif, ingeniously crafted from post-consumer textile fibers (such as Levis® denim) and natural binders. Studio Sarmite seamlessly integrates age-old textile techniques with innovative bioplastic utilization, birthing a groundbreaking textile paradigm where old garments metamorphose into the building blocks for new creations.At its core lies recycled textile fibers, affectionately termed shoddy, serving as the foundational element. Despite its exceptional insulation properties, shoddy has long been relegated to a utilitarian role owing to its short, heterogeneous fibers and uninspiring grey hue.However, through meticulous color separation, precision pattern crafting, and the artistry of natural dyeing with madder or nutshells, this reimagined biomaterial emerges with a stunning and distinctive aesthetic. Moreover, the incorporation of bioplastics not only fortifies the fibers internally but also imparts a sleek, leather-like finish to the material.

THE NATURAL PIGMENT LINE

Natural pigments are used to further remove the existing stigma of recycled textiles. Together with Roua Atelier, Studio Sarmite developed a pioneering dyeing method for mixed blends. The dyeing is integrated directly into the making of the biotextile thus leading to a unique design language and subtle, sophisticated colour palette.

THE MARBLE LINE

The Marble Line reveals new aesthetics and highlights the previous lives of each worn garment through colour and structural nuances. Waste does not have a single tone. Instead, it mesmerizes with depths and patterns that create a complexity visible once looked closer at.

The studio values circularity over plain longevity. That is why they use a natural, biodegradable glue that ensures that the biotextile can be recycled at the end of its life. How does that look? The biotextile can be dissolved via a special process and the fibres – repurposed for future production.

Link to the original article on Eclectic Trends